Fence Installation Costs by Material

Key takeaways

• Most new fences cost about $2,000–$8,000 installed. Smaller, basic fences can be under $2,000, while long, tall, or decorative fences can easily run $10,000+.
• Material is the biggest price driver. Chain link is usually cheapest, wood is mid-range, and vinyl or composite often costs more upfront but needs less maintenance.
• Height, gates, and terrain add up fast. Taller fences, multiple gates, and sloped or rocky yards can increase labor and materials by hundreds or thousands of dollars.
• Repair is often worth it for newer or small sections. If the fence is under 10 years old and repairs are under ~30–40% of replacement cost, fixing it usually makes sense.
• Permits, property lines, and HOA rules matter. Some areas require permits and inspections, and many HOAs limit fence height, style, and color.
• Professional installation reduces risk. Proper post depth, concrete, and alignment help avoid leaning, sagging, and early failure.
• Get multiple quotes. Fence pricing varies widely between companies and materials, so comparing 2–3 local pros is smart before you commit.

Typical price range

All numbers below are approximate US ballpark ranges for typical residential fences. Actual costs vary with local labor rates, material quality, yard conditions, and design choices.

Common installed fence cost ranges (per linear foot)

These include materials + typical professional installation:

• Chain link fence: $15–$30 per linear foot
• Basic wood (pressure-treated pine, simple design): $20–$40 per linear foot
• Higher-end wood (cedar, decorative): $35–$60+ per linear foot
• Vinyl/PVC fence: $30–$60 per linear foot
• Composite fence: $40–$80+ per linear foot
• Ornamental metal (aluminum/steel-style): $40–$80+ per linear foot

Example: A 150-foot perimeter (roughly a small to mid-size yard side or back section) in basic wood at $25/ft would be about $3,750 installed.

Typical project totals

• Small section / side yard (50–100 ft): $1,000–$4,000+
• Average backyard (150–250 ft): $3,000–$10,000+
• Large yard or full perimeter (300–500+ ft): $6,000–$25,000+

Gates and extras

• Standard walk gate (3–4 ft wide): $150–$600 each
  (More for vinyl, composite, or metal; includes hardware.)
• Driveway / double gate (10–16 ft wide): $500–$2,500+
  (Manual gates; automatic openers are extra.)
• Removal and haul-away of old fence: $2–$5 per linear foot
• Staining/painting wood fence (if done by a pro): $1–$4 per linear foot

What pushes costs lower

• Shorter fences (3–4 ft) instead of 6 ft privacy.
• Straight, level yards with easy access for equipment.
• Basic designs with few gates and no decorative tops.
• Standard materials (pressure-treated wood, basic chain link).
• DIY finishing like staining or painting wood yourself.

What pushes costs higher

• Taller fences (6–8 ft) for privacy or security.
• Multiple gates or wide driveway gates.
• Decorative styles (lattice tops, custom caps, alternating board patterns).
• Premium materials like cedar, composite, or ornamental metal.
• Challenging terrain (slopes, rocks, tree roots) that slows digging.
• Strict HOA or code requirements that limit cheaper options.

Repair vs. replacement

Deciding whether to repair or replace comes down to age, damage, and cost.

When repair makes sense

• Fence is relatively new:
  • Wood: generally under 10–12 years old
  • Vinyl/metal/composite: under 15–20 years old
• Damage is localized:
  • A few broken pickets or boards
  • 1–3 leaning posts
  • Small rusted or damaged chain link section
• Repair cost is under ~30–40% of replacement.
  If a repair is $800 and a full new fence is $4,000, repair is often reasonable.

Typical repair ranges:

• Minor repair (few boards, small chain link patch): $150–$500
• Moderate repair (several posts, small section replacement): $400–$1,500
• Major repair (large sections, multiple posts): $1,200–$3,000+

When replacement is usually smarter

• Widespread rot or rust. Many soft or crumbling posts, pickets, or rails indicate the structure is failing.
• Fence is at or past typical lifespan:
  • Basic wood: ~10–15 years (longer if well-maintained)
  • Cedar or higher-end wood: ~15–20 years
  • Chain link: ~20+ years
  • Vinyl/composite: ~25–30+ years
• Ongoing repairs keep adding up. If you’re calling someone out every year, a new fence may be cheaper over 5–10 years.
• You want a different style or height. Upgrading for privacy, pets, or curb appeal can justify replacement.

Example: Repair vs. replace

• You have a 15-year-old wood privacy fence, 150 ft long.
• Several posts are rotted, and about 30 ft of boards are warped.
• A pro quotes:
  • Repair: Replace 6 posts + 30 ft of boards for about $1,800
  • Full replacement in basic wood: About $4,500–$5,000

Because the fence is older and the repair is around 35–40% of replacement cost, and more sections may fail soon, full replacement is likely the better long-term value.

Efficiency and long-term costs

Fences don’t use energy, but they do have long-term costs in maintenance, repairs, and lifespan.

Wood fences

• Lower upfront cost but higher maintenance.
• Needs staining, sealing, or painting every 2–5 years in many climates.
• Expect to spend:
  • DIY stain/paint materials: maybe $100–$400 every few years
  • Pro staining/painting: $500–$2,000+ depending on length
• If neglected, wood can rot, warp, and lean sooner, shortening its life and increasing repair costs.

Vinyl and composite fences

• Higher upfront cost, but minimal maintenance.
• No staining or painting required; usually just occasional washing.
• Less prone to rot or insect damage, so fewer repairs over 10–20 years.
• Over 20+ years, the total cost of ownership can be similar to or even lower than wood, especially if you’d pay pros for regular wood maintenance.

Chain link fences

• Economical and durable, especially for large areas.
• Can rust over time, but modern galvanized or coated options last longer.
• Lower maintenance than wood, but less privacy and often less curb appeal, which can matter for resale.

When paying more upfront can save money

• Upgrading from basic wood to vinyl or composite may cost more now but:
  • Reduces or eliminates staining/painting costs.
  • Lowers the chance of rot-related repairs.
  • Often increases lifespan, especially in wet or harsh climates.
• Better-quality posts and hardware (heavier posts, stainless or coated screws) can:
  • Reduce leaning and sagging.
  • Extend the life of the entire fence, not just one section.

What to expect from a visit or project

Before the pro arrives

• Clarify your goals. Privacy, pets, kids, pool safety, security, or just marking property lines?
• Check rules:
  • HOA guidelines on height, color, and style.
  • Local codes for pool barriers or corner lot visibility.
• Locate property lines. Use your survey if you have one; if not, discuss with the pro whether a survey is needed.
• Call 811 (digging safety). In many areas, your installer will arrange this, but it’s worth confirming. Underground utilities must be marked before digging.

Typical estimate visit (30–90 minutes)

• Walk the property. Discuss where the fence will go, gate locations, and any obstacles (trees, slopes, existing structures).
• Measure the linear footage. The pro will measure all fence runs and note height and style.
• Discuss materials and options. Wood vs. vinyl vs. chain link vs. composite, plus any decorative features.
• Review access and terrain. Steep slopes, tight side yards, or rocky soil can affect labor costs.
• Get a written estimate. Should outline:
  • Linear footage and height
  • Material type and style
  • Number and type of gates
  • Removal of old fence (if any)
  • Estimated timeline and payment schedule

Typical repair visit (1–4 hours)

• Assessment and confirmation (15–30 minutes).
  Pro confirms which posts, panels, or sections need work.
• Set up and safety (10–20 minutes).
  Tools, saws, and work area are staged; neighbors may be notified if needed.
• Perform repairs (1–3 hours+).
  • Replace broken pickets/boards or rails
  • Reset or replace leaning posts
  • Patch or stretch chain link sections
  • Adjust or repair gates and latches
• Clean-up and walkthrough (10–20 minutes).
  Old materials hauled away (if included), and you review the completed work.

Typical full replacement project

Day 1: Removal and posts (4–8 hours, depending on size)

• Remove old fence (if applicable).
  Panels and posts are taken down, concrete removed where possible.
• Lay out fence line.
  String lines and stakes mark the exact path and gate openings.
• Dig post holes.
  Typically 2–3 ft deep, depending on fence height and local frost depth.
• Set posts in concrete.
  Posts are leveled and braced while concrete cures.

Day 2–3: Panels, rails, and gates (4–16 hours)

• Install rails and panels/boards.
  Wood: rails first, then pickets/boards.
  Vinyl/composite: prefabricated panels or components.
• Install gates.
  Hinges, latches, and any locks are added and adjusted for smooth operation.
• Final touches and cleanup.
  Caps installed, debris removed, site raked and swept.

Larger or more complex projects (long runs, multiple gates, slopes) may take several days. Weather can also delay concrete curing and installation.

DIY vs. hire a pro

Reasonable DIY tasks for a handy homeowner

• Minor wood repairs:
  • Replacing a few damaged boards or pickets.
  • Re-securing loose rails with proper exterior screws.
• Simple chain link fixes:
  • Reattaching loose ties.
  • Replacing a small section of bent top rail.
• Staining or painting a wood fence:
  • With a sprayer, roller, or brush, if you’re comfortable and follow product directions.
• Basic gate adjustments:
  • Tightening hinges.
  • Adjusting latches that no longer line up.

These tasks require basic tools (drill, saw, level, wrenches) and attention to safety.

Tasks best left to pros

• Setting new posts in concrete.
  Proper hole depth, spacing, and alignment are critical for a straight, stable fence. Mistakes here can cause leaning and sagging.
• Full fence installation or major replacement.
  Involves layout, digging, concrete, and often permits or HOA compliance.
• Working near utilities.
  Any digging risks hitting gas, electric, or communication lines. Pros know how to read utility markings and adjust layouts.
• Pool fences and safety barriers.
  These often have strict code requirements for height, latch type, and spacing. Non-compliance can be a safety and liability issue.
• Large or heavy gates (especially driveway gates).
  Poorly supported gates can sag, bind, or fail. Automatic openers, if used, should be installed by qualified pros.

If you’re unsure, it’s safer to consult a professional. You can still do some finishing work (like staining) yourself to save money.

Questions to ask potential pros

• “Do I need a permit or HOA approval for this fence, and who handles it?”
• “Can you walk me through the exact materials you’re quoting?”
  (Type of wood, vinyl thickness, chain link gauge, post size, hardware.)
• “Is old fence removal and haul-away included in this price?”
• “How deep will you set the posts, and what type of concrete or footing do you use?”
• “How do you handle slopes or uneven ground?”
  (Stepped vs. racked panels.)
• “What is included in the warranty for materials and labor, and how long does it last?”
• “How many gates are included, and what kind—walk vs. driveway?”
• “What’s the estimated project timeline from start to finish?”
• “How do you protect existing landscaping, sprinklers, and utilities?”
• “What is your payment schedule, and are there any potential extra charges?”
• “Can I see photos or references from similar projects you’ve done?”
• “Will your crew be the ones doing the work, or do you subcontract?”

Quick FAQ

How long does a new fence usually last?

• Basic wood fences typically last 10–15 years, longer with good maintenance.
• Cedar, vinyl, composite, and metal fences often last 20–30+ years with minimal issues.

Will my homeowner’s insurance cover fence damage?

Insurance may cover fence damage from specific events like storms, fallen trees, or accidents, but usually not from age, rot, or normal wear and tear. It’s best to check your policy or call your insurer before starting major repairs or replacement.

Can I build a fence right on the property line?

Often you can, but property line disputes are common. It’s wise to confirm your survey, talk with your neighbor, and follow any local setback rules. Some areas require fences to be set a small distance inside your property.

Do I need my neighbor’s permission to replace a shared fence?

Laws vary, but if a fence is considered shared, it’s smart to discuss plans and costs with your neighbor in writing. Even if not legally required, cooperation can avoid disputes and may allow you to split costs.

Wrap-up and next steps

Choosing the right fence comes down to material, height, and long-term plans for your property. Chain link and basic wood can keep costs down, while vinyl, composite, or decorative options cost more upfront but may save on maintenance and boost curb appeal.

If your existing fence is older and needs frequent repairs, or if repair bids are approaching one-third to half the cost of a new fence, replacement usually offers better value. For newer fences with localized damage, targeted repairs can extend life for years at a lower cost.

Before you commit, it’s wise to get 2–3 detailed quotes so you can compare materials, warranties, and installation methods—not just the bottom-line price. A neutral directory like Home Services Scout can help you quickly find and compare local fence installers and repair pros.

With a clear sense of your budget, priorities, and the ballpark numbers in this guide, you’re well-positioned to choose a fence that protects your property, fits your style, and makes financial sense for the long term.