Fence Permits and Property Lines: What to Check Before You Build

Before you sink money into posts, panels, and concrete, it pays to slow down and confirm you’re allowed to build the fence you’re planning. A few checks on permits, property lines, and neighborhood rules can save you from fines, disputes, or tearing the whole thing out later. This guide walks through what to verify before you start digging.

Key takeaways

• Check your property lines before you dig. Don’t rely on old fences or guesswork; use a survey, plat map, or a licensed surveyor to confirm where your land actually ends.
• Confirm local fence rules and permits. Cities, counties, and HOAs often limit fence height, style, and location—and may require a permit or inspection.
• Know setback and “corner lot” rules. Many areas require fences to be set back from sidewalks, streets, and driveways to protect visibility and access.
• Talk to your neighbors early. A quick conversation can prevent boundary disputes, complaints, and calls to the local code office after the fence is up.
• Document everything in writing. Keep copies of surveys, permits, HOA approvals, and any neighbor agreements in case questions come up later.
• Be cautious about DIY near property lines. A fence a few inches over the line can turn into a costly legal problem; when in doubt, bring in a pro or surveyor.
• Plan for gates, utilities, and drainage. Think about how people, pets, water, and service providers will move through or around the fence before you finalize the layout.

Typical costs / fees (if applicable)

Fence permits and property line checks are usually a small part of the overall fence budget, but they’re critical:

• Fence permits

  • Many areas charge a flat fee, often in the $25–$150 range.
  • Some base the fee on project value or length, which can push it higher for large or complex jobs.
  • Costs can increase if:
    • The fence is over a certain height (for example, taller privacy fences)
    • You’re on a corner lot or near a street where visibility is a concern
    • The fence is around a pool, which often has stricter safety codes

• Property surveys

  • If you already have a recent survey or plat, you may not need a new one.
  • A new boundary survey typically runs roughly $400–$1,200+, depending on:
    • Lot size and shape
    • How easy it is to access and locate boundary markers
    • Local labor rates and demand
  • Complex or large properties can cost more.

• HOA applications or architectural review

  • Some HOAs charge a small review fee (often $25–$100), while others include it in regular dues.
  • You may also have to submit:
    • A site sketch showing fence location
    • Material and color samples
    • A copy of your survey or plat

• Potential “redo” costs if something goes wrong

  • Moving or removing a non-compliant fence can cost hundreds to several thousand dollars, especially if:
    • Concrete footings need to be broken out
    • Landscaping or irrigation must be repaired
    • You have to pay for a second installation after fixing the issue

Spending a little on permits and clear property lines upfront is almost always cheaper than fixing a fence that violates rules or crosses a boundary.

What to expect (process overview)

1. Gather your property documents

Start with what you already have:

• Look for:
  • Your property deed
  • Any plat maps or surveys from when you bought the home
  • Title documents that may mention easements or shared fences
• Check for:
  • Lot dimensions and shape
  • Existing easements (utility, drainage, access)
  • Any notes about shared or party fences

If you can’t find these, your closing paperwork, title company, or local records office may have copies.

2. Confirm your property lines

Do not assume the existing fence, hedge, or tree line is correct.

• Options to confirm boundaries:

  • Use a recorded survey or plat if it’s recent and clearly matches what you see on the ground.
  • Look for property pins or markers at corners (small metal stakes, sometimes with caps).
  • If there’s any doubt, hire a licensed land surveyor to mark the lines.

• Watch-outs:

  • Old fences are often not on the exact boundary.
  • Moving a fence later—after a dispute or inspection—can be expensive and stressful.
  • If your neighbor disputes the line, a current professional survey is usually the clearest answer.

3. Check local zoning and building rules

Next, find out what your city or county allows:

• Where to look:

  • Local building or zoning department website
  • Printed handouts or “fence guidelines” at city hall or the permitting office
  • Phone or email to your building department for clarification

• Common rules to expect:

  • Maximum fence height in front, side, and rear yards (often lower in front)
  • Setbacks from sidewalks, streets, and property lines
  • Limits on materials or styles (e.g., no barbed wire in residential areas)
  • Extra rules for corner lots to preserve driver visibility
  • Specific requirements for pool fences (height, latch type, gap size)

Take notes or save copies of any guidelines you find. If something isn’t clear, ask for clarification in writing (email is helpful to keep a record).

4. Review HOA or neighborhood rules (if applicable)

If you’re in a community with a homeowners association or similar group:

• Check:

  • Your CC&Rs (covenants, conditions, and restrictions)
  • Any architectural guidelines or design manuals
  • The process for submitting a fence request

• Typical HOA fence rules:

  • Approved materials (e.g., wood, vinyl, metal)
  • Allowed colors and heights
  • Requirements for “good side out” (finished side facing the street or neighbor)
  • Placement rules near common areas or shared driveways

Most HOAs require written approval before you build. Skipping this step can lead to fines or being forced to modify or remove the fence.

5. Identify easements, utilities, and special areas

Before you finalize the layout:

• Look for easements:

  • Utility easements along back or side property lines
  • Drainage swales or ditches
  • Shared access easements (driveways, paths)

• Call 811 before you dig:

  • This free service marks buried utilities (gas, electric, water, telecom) so you don’t hit them with post holes.
  • Digging without utility locates is dangerous and can be very expensive if you damage a line.

• Plan around:

  • Meters, cleanouts, and shutoff valves that need to stay accessible
  • HVAC units, generators, or trash areas that service providers must reach
  • Drainage patterns so the fence doesn’t trap water against your house or your neighbor’s.

6. Talk with your neighbors

Even if you’re fully within your rights, a conversation goes a long way:

• Share your plan:

  • Where the fence will go
  • Height and material
  • When work is likely to happen

• Discuss:

  • Whether they have any concerns about access or views
  • How you’ll handle maintenance on both sides
  • If there’s any chance of cost sharing for a boundary fence (if allowed in your area and by your HOA)

Keep the tone friendly and factual. If you agree on anything important, it’s smart to summarize it in writing (even a simple email) to avoid misunderstandings later.

7. Confirm whether you need a permit

Using what you learned from local rules:

• You’ll likely need a permit if:

  • The fence is above a certain height (often around 6 feet, but it varies)
  • You’re on a corner lot or near an intersection
  • You’re fencing around a pool
  • You’re changing the fence in a way that affects drainage or grading

• Permit process basics:

  • Submit an application with:
    • A site plan or sketch showing fence location and height
    • Basic construction details (posts, footings, materials)
    • Any required HOA approval letters
  • Pay the permit fee.
  • Wait for approval before starting work; this can take a few days to a few weeks depending on your area.

Some areas also require inspections during or after installation to confirm compliance.

8. Finalize layout, height, and design

Once you know what’s allowed:

• Mark the fence line:

  • Use stakes and string to outline the fence path.
  • Double-check against your survey markers and any setback requirements.

• Plan key details:

  • Gate locations for people, vehicles, and yard equipment
  • Gate swing direction (so it doesn’t block sidewalks or driveways)
  • Any transitions in height (for example, lower near the front, higher in the back)

• Check sightlines and access:

  • Make sure drivers can see around corners if you’re near a street.
  • Ensure there’s clear access for trash pickup, deliveries, and emergency services if needed.

9. Build or schedule the installation

With approvals in place:

• If hiring a pro:

  • Confirm they have copies of your permit, survey, and HOA approval.
  • Walk the property with them and agree on:
    • The exact fence line
    • Gate locations
    • Any special conditions (e.g., working around trees or sprinklers)

• If DIY:

  • Follow all permit conditions and local codes closely.
  • Respect any inspection requirements and call for inspections as required.
  • Keep all paperwork on site in case an inspector or code official stops by.

DIY vs. hire a pro (or self-serve vs. professional)

When DIY might be reasonable

Building your own fence can make sense when:

• You’re installing a simple, low fence (like a small garden or picket fence) well inside your property lines.
• Your local rules are straightforward, and you’re comfortable reading and following them.
• You have the time, tools, and physical ability for digging post holes, setting concrete, and handling materials.

Even then, you should still:

• Confirm property lines and setbacks.
• Pull permits if required.
• Call 811 before digging.

When to lean toward a professional

Consider hiring a fence contractor and/or surveyor when:

• The fence is on or very close to a property boundary.
• You’re on a slope, corner lot, or near a street, where visibility and drainage matter.
• You’re fencing around a pool, where safety codes are strict.
• There are disputes or confusion about property lines.
• You’re dealing with HOA rules, multiple approvals, or inspections.

Pros can:

• Interpret local codes and HOA requirements correctly.
• Help you avoid common permit and layout mistakes.
• Install the fence faster and more precisely, especially on tricky terrain.

Because mistakes here can lead to legal issues, fines, or having to move the fence, it’s often worth paying for professional help when there’s any doubt.

If you want to compare local fence pros, Home Services Scout can help you quickly see options and pricing in your area.

Questions to ask before you commit

Use these questions with yourself, your contractor, and your local authorities:

• Do I have a current, accurate survey, and do I understand exactly where my property lines are?
• What are my local limits on fence height, style, and location in front, side, and rear yards?
• Are there any required setbacks from sidewalks, streets, or neighbors’ driveways?
• Do I need a permit, and if so, what drawings or documents are required to get it approved?
• Are there easements or utilities along the planned fence line that could restrict where I build?
• What are my HOA’s rules about fences, and do I need written approval before I start?
• How will this fence affect drainage on my property and my neighbors’ properties?
• Where should gates go so people, pets, and equipment can move easily and safely?
• What happens if a neighbor later claims the fence is on their property—how will we resolve that?
• If I hire a contractor, will they handle permits and inspections, or is that my responsibility?
• What warranties or guarantees cover the fence if it has to be moved due to a permit or property line issue?
• What is the total cost difference between building just inside my property line vs. exactly on the boundary?

Quick FAQ

Do I always need a permit to build a fence?

Not always. Many areas allow lower, backyard fences without a permit, but often require one for taller fences, corner lots, or pool barriers. Check with your local building or zoning department before you start—assuming you don’t need a permit can backfire.

Is an old fence line proof of the property boundary?

No. Old fences, hedges, or walls are often off by inches or even feet. They might have been placed for convenience, not accuracy. A recorded survey or a new survey from a licensed professional is the most reliable way to confirm boundaries.

Can I put my fence directly on the property line?

Sometimes, but not always. Local codes, easements, and HOA rules may require you to set the fence back from the line. Building right on the boundary can also complicate maintenance and neighbor relations. Always check rules first and consider leaving a small offset on your side.

What if my neighbor refuses to agree on the property line?

If a neighbor disputes the line, a licensed surveyor’s report is usually the best starting point. In more serious cases, you may need to consult a real estate attorney. Avoid building a fence in a disputed area until the boundary is clearly resolved.

Wrap-up / next steps

A fence can add privacy, security, and curb appeal, but only if it’s built in the right place and in line with local rules. Taking time to confirm property lines, permits, setbacks, and HOA requirements is far cheaper than moving a finished fence.

Next steps:

• Gather your surveys, plats, and HOA documents.
• Call your local building department to confirm what’s required.
• Decide whether you’re comfortable handling permits and layout yourself or want professional help.

If you’re leaning toward hiring a pro, it’s smart to get 2–3 quotes so you can compare pricing, approaches, and how each contractor handles permits and property line issues. You can use Home Services Scout to quickly compare local fencing professionals and find ones who understand your area’s rules before any posts go in the ground.