Flooring Cost Comparison: Carpet vs. Vinyl vs. Wood

Key takeaways

• Carpet is usually cheapest upfront at about $2–$6 per sq. ft. installed, but it wears faster and can stain, especially in high-traffic or pet-heavy homes.
• Vinyl (sheet, plank, or tile) is the best all-around budget choice at roughly $2.50–$7 per sq. ft. installed, with good water resistance and low maintenance.
• Engineered and solid wood cost more upfront at around $6–$15+ per sq. ft. installed, but can add warmth, character, and resale value if well cared for.
• Moisture and traffic level should drive your choice: vinyl for kitchens/basements, carpet for bedrooms, and wood for main living areas where water isn’t a big risk.
• Repairs make sense when they’re under ~30–40% of replacement cost and the surrounding flooring is in good shape; beyond that, replacement is often smarter.
• Durability varies a lot: budget carpet may last 5–8 years, vinyl 10–20 years, and wood floors can last decades with refinishing.
• Installation quality matters as much as material quality—especially for wood and vinyl. Poor prep can shorten the life of any floor.

Typical price range

All numbers below are approximate US ballpark ranges for materials plus basic professional installation. Actual costs depend heavily on product quality, subfloor condition, local labor rates, and room layout.

Carpet (per square foot installed)

• Budget carpet & pad: $2–$4/sq. ft.
  (Basic synthetic carpet, standard pad, simple layout)
• Mid-range carpet & pad: $4–$7/sq. ft.
  (Better density, stain resistance, upgraded pad)
• High-end carpet: $7–$12+/sq. ft.
  (Premium fibers, patterned or textured styles)

Vinyl (sheet, LVP, LVT) (per square foot installed)

• Budget sheet vinyl: $2.50–$4/sq. ft.
• Mid-range luxury vinyl plank/tile (LVP/LVT): $3.50–$6.50/sq. ft.
• High-end waterproof vinyl: $6.50–$9+/sq. ft.
  (Thicker wear layer, better visuals, attached underlayment)

Wood (engineered and solid) (per square foot installed)

• Budget engineered wood: $6–$9/sq. ft.
• Mid-range engineered or basic solid wood: $8–$12/sq. ft.
• High-end solid hardwood: $12–$18+/sq. ft.
  (Wide planks, specialty species, complex patterns)

Common project scenarios

• Small bedroom (120 sq. ft.) with carpet:
  • Budget: $250–$600
  • Mid-range: $500–$900
• Average living room (250 sq. ft.) with vinyl plank:
  • Budget: $900–$1,500
  • Mid-range: $1,300–$2,000
• Main floor (800 sq. ft.) with engineered wood:
  • Budget: $4,800–$7,200
  • Higher-end: $7,200–$12,000+

Repair and partial replacement ranges

• Carpet patch/repair: $100–$350 per area
  (Patching a burn, seam repair, stretching loose carpet)
• Vinyl plank/tile replacement: $150–$500
  (Replacing damaged planks/tiles, assuming extra material is available)
• Wood floor repair & refinishing (localized): $400–$1,200+
  (Repairing a small damaged area plus blending/refinishing)

What pushes costs lower

• Smaller, simple rooms with few cuts or corners.
• Floating click-together vinyl or engineered wood instead of glue-down or nail-down.
• Using existing, sound subfloors with minimal prep.
• Basic patterns and colors instead of custom designs or borders.
• DIY removal of old carpet (if safe and allowed by your installer).

What pushes costs higher

• Subfloor issues (leveling, moisture barriers, repairs).
• Stairs, closets, and complex layouts that require more cutting and labor.
• Tear-out and disposal of old flooring, especially tile or glued-down products.
• Premium materials (thicker wear layers, specialty hardwoods, custom stains).
• Moisture mitigation in basements or over concrete slabs.

Repair vs. replacement

Choosing between repairing what you have and starting fresh often comes down to age, extent of damage, and how much you’re spending relative to new flooring.

When repair makes sense

• Carpet

  • Small stains or burns: A patch or professional cleaning is often enough.
  • Loose or wrinkled carpet: Re-stretching is usually cheaper than new carpet.
  • Rule of thumb: If the carpet is under 7–8 years old and the repair is under ~30% of replacement cost, repair is usually reasonable.

• Vinyl

  • A few damaged planks/tiles: Can often be replaced individually if you have matching material.
  • Minor seams or edges lifting: Sometimes fixable with adhesives or trim.
  • Rule of thumb: If less than 10–15% of the floor area is affected and the pattern is still available, repair is worth exploring.

• Wood

  • Scratches and light wear: Sanding and refinishing can restore the surface.
  • Localized damage: Small water stains or gouges can sometimes be patched and blended.
  • Rule of thumb: If the wood is structurally sound and the floor hasn’t been refinished too many times, repair/refinish can be a great value.

When replacement is smarter

• Carpet

  • Heavy wear, matting, or lingering odors: Especially from pets or smoking.
  • Age over 10–12 years for most mid-range carpets.
  • Repair costs approach 40–50% of new carpet: At that point, new carpet usually makes more sense.

• Vinyl

  • Widespread discoloration, curling, or cracking.
  • Water damage under the vinyl (soft spots, mold, or swelling).
  • Outdated or mismatched patches: If repairs will be obvious and you dislike the look anyway.

• Wood

  • Severe water damage or warping over large areas.
  • Multiple past refinishes where the wear layer is thin.
  • Structural subfloor issues that need addressing under the wood.

A concrete example

Say you have a 200 sq. ft. living room with mid-range carpet:

• New carpet cost:
  • Mid-range installed: roughly $4.50/sq. ft. → $900 total.
• Repair estimate:
  • Patch a burned area and re-stretch: $250–$350.

If the carpet is 5 years old, in good shape otherwise, and you like it, spending $250–$350 (about 30–40% of replacement) on repair is reasonable.
If the carpet is 12 years old, looks worn, and smells musty, that same $250–$350 is probably better put toward full replacement.

Efficiency and long-term costs

Flooring doesn’t use energy like an appliance, but it affects comfort, cleaning time, and how often you’ll pay to replace it.

Durability and lifespan

• Carpet

  • Budget: ~5–8 years in normal use.
  • Mid-range: ~8–12 years.
  • High-end: 12–15+ years with good care.
  • More frequent replacement can mean higher lifetime cost, even if it’s cheaper upfront.

• Vinyl

  • Budget sheet vinyl: ~8–12 years.
  • Mid-range LVP/LVT: ~10–20 years.
  • Thicker wear layers and better installation can extend life significantly.

• Wood

  • Engineered wood: Often 20–30 years (sometimes more), depending on wear layer and refinishing.
  • Solid hardwood: Can last 40+ years, sometimes generations, with periodic refinishing.

Comfort and “operating” costs

• Carpet

  • Softer and warmer underfoot, especially in bedrooms.
  • May need more frequent deep cleaning to manage allergens, stains, and odors.
  • Vacuuming is easy, but professional cleaning every 12–24 months adds cost.

• Vinyl

  • Very low maintenance: Regular sweeping and damp mopping.
  • Good water resistance, reducing risk of water-damage repairs.
  • Some products feel cooler and harder underfoot; underlayment can help.

• Wood

  • Adds perceived value and often appeals to buyers.
  • Needs careful cleaning (no standing water, gentle cleaners).
  • You may refinish instead of replace, which spreads costs over decades.

When paying more upfront can save later

• Upgrading from budget carpet to mid-range vinyl in a high-traffic area can mean replacing every 10–20 years instead of 5–8, with fewer stain and odor issues.
• Choosing engineered wood instead of cheap laminate in main living spaces can improve resale appeal and avoid early replacement due to chipping or swelling.
• Investing in better underlayment and subfloor prep reduces squeaks, movement, and premature wear, regardless of material.

What to expect from a visit or project

Before the pro arrives

• Initial contact (15–30 minutes)

  • Discuss room sizes, current flooring, budget, and goals (comfort, resale, rental-ready, etc.).
  • Decide whether you want carpet, vinyl, wood, or a mix in different rooms.

• In-home estimate (30–90 minutes)

  • The pro measures rooms and checks subfloor condition, transitions, and moisture risks.
  • They show samples or talk through style, color, and durability options.
  • You’ll receive a written estimate that should break out materials, labor, removal, and any extras.

Typical repair visit

• Arrival and inspection (15–30 minutes)

  • Confirm the problem area: stains, lifted seams, damaged planks, or wood scratches.
  • Verify that the repair is feasible and discuss any color-matching issues.

• Repair work (30–180 minutes, depending on scope)

  • Carpet: Re-stretching, seam repair, or patching with leftover or new carpet.
  • Vinyl: Removing and replacing damaged planks/tiles, re-adhering loose edges.
  • Wood: Filling, sanding, and spot finishing; sometimes blending stains.

• Cleanup and walk-through (15–30 minutes)

  • Vacuuming or sweeping, removing debris.
  • Review the repair, discuss dry times (for finishes/adhesives), and care instructions.

Typical replacement project

• Day 1: Prep and removal

  • Furniture moving (30–120 minutes) depending on room size and how much is in the space.
  • Old flooring removal (1–4+ hours):
    • Carpet: Cutting, rolling, and hauling away.
    • Vinyl or wood: More labor-intensive, especially if glued or nailed.
  • Subfloor inspection and repair (1–3+ hours) if needed:
    • Leveling low spots, fixing squeaks, adding underlayment, or moisture barriers.

• Day 1–2: Installation

  • Carpet:
    • Install pad, then stretch and seam carpet.
    • Average room: often completed in half a day to a full day.
  • Vinyl plank/tile:
    • Layout planning, cutting, and fitting.
    • Floating floors often go down in 1 day for a few rooms; whole levels may take 2–3 days.
  • Wood (engineered or solid):
    • Acclimation may be needed (materials sitting in your home for 2–7 days before install).
    • Nail-down or glue-down installation can take 1–3+ days depending on square footage.
    • Site-finished wood (stained and finished on-site) adds 1–3 days for sanding and finish coats.

• Final steps

  • Trim and transitions: Install or re-install baseboards, shoe molding, and threshold pieces.
  • Cleanup: Vacuum/sweep, remove scraps, and haul away debris.
  • Walk-through: Confirm you’re satisfied, review warranty and care instructions.

DIY vs. hire a pro

Reasonable DIY tasks for a handy homeowner

• Basic removal of old carpet
  • Cutting, rolling, and disposing of carpet and pad, if you’re comfortable with physical work and have a plan for disposal.
• Click-together vinyl plank in simple, square rooms
  • Floating LVP/LVT can be DIY-friendly with careful measuring and patience.
• Minor cosmetic fixes
  • Using manufacturer-approved touch-up kits for small wood scratches.
  • Replacing a single loose vinyl plank or tile, if accessible and instructions are clear.
• Routine maintenance
  • Vacuuming, mopping, and following cleaning guidelines to extend life.

Tasks best left to pros

• Subfloor leveling and structural repairs
  • Uneven floors, soft spots, or suspected moisture issues should be handled by experienced pros to avoid long-term problems.
• Nail-down or glue-down wood installation
  • Requires specialized tools, knowledge of expansion gaps, nailing patterns, and moisture control, and can be expensive to fix if done wrong.
• Large or complex layouts
  • Multiple rooms, stairs, and intricate patterns are much easier and more precise with pro installation.
• Refinishing wood floors
  • Sanding equipment is powerful and can damage floors or create dust and safety hazards if misused.
• Work that may affect building codes or warranties
  • Some flooring manufacturers require professional installation to keep warranties valid.

When in doubt, it’s wise to at least get a professional opinion and quote. You can always decide to DIY smaller portions afterward.

Questions to ask potential pros

• What flooring types do you recommend for my specific rooms and lifestyle (kids, pets, moisture)?
• Can you break down your estimate into materials, labor, removal, subfloor work, and any extras?
• How will you handle subfloor issues if you find problems after removing the old flooring, and how will those costs be priced?
• Do you move and reset furniture, appliances, and toilets if needed, and is that included in the price?
• What is the expected lifespan of the carpet/vinyl/wood you’re quoting, and what maintenance does it require?
• Are there any manufacturer or installation warranties, and what exactly do they cover (and for how long)?
• How will you manage dust, noise, and debris, and what’s the cleanup process at the end of the job?
• How long will the project take from start to finish, including acclimation time for wood if needed?
• Do you handle disposal of old flooring, and is that cost included?
• Are you licensed and insured, and can you provide recent references or photos of similar projects?
• Will the same crew that does the estimate do the installation, or is it subcontracted out?

Quick FAQ

Is carpet, vinyl, or wood best for resale value?

In many markets, wood (or high-quality wood-look flooring) in main living areas tends to be most attractive to buyers, with carpet often preferred in bedrooms. That said, clean, neutral, and well-installed flooring of any type is better for resale than worn or mismatched floors.

Can I mix carpet, vinyl, and wood in the same home?

Yes. Many homes use wood or vinyl in main living areas, vinyl in kitchens and baths, and carpet in bedrooms. The key is to keep colors and transitions coordinated so the home feels cohesive.

How do I know if my subfloor needs work?

Signs include squeaks, soft spots, noticeable dips or humps, or past water damage. A flooring pro will usually flag these during the estimate and after tear-out. Subfloor repairs add cost but are important for a long-lasting, squeak-free floor.

Are there flooring options that help with allergies?

Many people with allergies prefer vinyl or wood because they’re easier to keep free of dust and allergens. If you choose carpet, look for low-pile, dense options and plan on regular vacuuming and periodic deep cleaning.

Wrap-up and next steps

Choosing between carpet, vinyl, and wood comes down to where the floor is going, how you live, and how long you want it to last:

• Carpet: Best for comfort and warmth in bedrooms and low-moisture areas on a tighter budget.
• Vinyl: A great all-purpose, water-resistant choice for kitchens, basements, and busy households.
• Wood: Ideal when you want long-term value and character in main living spaces and are ready to invest more upfront.

Look at age, current condition, and total project cost to decide whether repairing is enough or replacement is the smarter long-term move. For most projects, it’s wise to get 2–3 detailed quotes so you can compare materials, installation approach, and warranties—not just the bottom-line price.

If you’re ready to explore options, you can use a neutral local-pro directory like Home Services Scout to compare flooring installers and repair pros in your area. With clear information and the right questions, you can choose a flooring material that fits your budget now and holds up well in the years ahead.