Garage Door Spring Repair: What It Costs and Why It’s Dangerous DIY

Garage door springs almost always fail without much warning—and when they do, your car can be stuck and the door can become unsafe to move. This guide walks through what a broken spring looks like, what the repair visit involves, how much it typically costs, and why this is one job most homeowners should not DIY.

Use this as a quick reference in an emergency so you can make safe, informed decisions and avoid repeat failures.

Key takeaways

• Broken springs are a safety issue, not just an inconvenience. A failed spring can cause the door to slam shut, strain the opener, and create serious injury risk if handled incorrectly.
• Most spring repairs fall in a few hundred dollars range. Costs depend on door size, spring type, quality of replacement parts, and your local labor rates.
• You usually need to replace both springs, not just one. On a two-spring setup, pros typically replace them as a pair to keep the door balanced and avoid a second failure soon after.
• DIY spring replacement is genuinely dangerous. Springs are under high tension; incorrect tools or steps can lead to severe injuries and property damage.
• A good tech will inspect the entire system, not just the springs. Expect them to check cables, rollers, hinges, tracks, and opener settings to prevent future issues.
• Maintenance after the repair extends spring life. Regular lubrication, balance checks, and avoiding excessive door cycles can add years to your new springs.
• Get more than one quote when you can. Pricing, warranties, and part quality vary, so comparing a few local pros is worth the time.

Typical costs / fees

Actual pricing varies by region and company, but here are common ballpark ranges in the US:

Spring repair / replacement

• Torsion spring replacement (most common on modern doors):
  • Roughly $200–$450 total for standard residential doors
  • Includes parts and labor in many cases
• Extension spring replacement (often on older doors):
  • Roughly $150–$350 total
• High-cycle or heavy-duty torsion springs:
  • Often $300–$600+, depending on door weight and spring rating

What drives costs up or down

• Door size and weight
  • Heavier or extra-wide doors (8–10 ft tall, insulated, or solid wood) need stronger, often more expensive springs.
• Number of springs
  • Single-spring systems are usually cheaper than two-spring systems, but many pros recommend converting to two springs for smoother operation and longer life.
• Spring quality and cycle rating
  • Standard springs are often rated for around 10,000 cycles (each open/close is one cycle).
  • High-cycle springs (20,000+ cycles) cost more but can last significantly longer, especially in homes where the door is used like a front door.
• Emergency or after-hours service
  • Evening, weekend, or same-day emergency calls often come with an extra fee or higher hourly rate.
• Travel and service fees
  • Many companies charge a service call or diagnostic fee (often in the $50–$100 range) that may be applied toward the repair if you proceed.
• Additional parts and repairs
  • Replacing cables, rollers, bearing plates, or end bearings at the same time can add $50–$200+, depending on what’s needed.
• Opener damage
  • If you tried to run the opener with a broken spring, the opener motor or gears may also need work, adding to the total cost.

What to expect (process overview)

When you call a garage door pro for a broken spring, here’s how it typically goes.

1. Initial call or online request

• Explain the symptoms clearly:
  • Door won’t open, or opens a few inches and stops
  • Loud bang heard from the garage
  • Visible gap in the spring above the door
• Ask about:
  • Same-day or next-day availability
  • Service call fee and whether it’s applied to the repair
  • Rough price range for spring replacement on your type of door

Watch-out: If your car is trapped, mention that—it may help you get prioritized.

2. Safety steps before the tech arrives

• Do NOT try to lift a heavy door alone. A door without working springs can weigh 150–300+ pounds.
• Unplug or disable the opener if the door is stuck partly open or you suspect a broken spring.
• Keep kids and pets away from the door area.
• If the door is stuck open, a tech may need to safely lower and secure it; don’t try to “muscle it down” yourself.

3. On-site inspection and diagnosis

When the tech arrives, they’ll typically:

• Visually inspect the springs:
  • Torsion springs: look for a visible break or gap in the coil above the door.
  • Extension springs: look for stretched or broken springs along the tracks.
• Check related components:
  • Lift cables, pulleys, drums, center and end bearings
  • Hinges, rollers, and track alignment
  • Condition of the door panels and weatherstripping
• Test door balance (if safe to do so):
  • The door should stay in place when lifted halfway if the springs are correctly sized and tensioned.

You should get a clear explanation and written estimate before work starts.

4. Removing old springs

For torsion springs (the most common):

• The tech will:
  • Secure the door in place so it can’t move unexpectedly.
  • Release spring tension using specialized winding bars and set screws.
  • Remove the broken springs, center bearing, and related hardware as needed.

For extension springs:

• They’ll relieve tension by opening the door fully and securing it, then remove the springs and safety cables.

Watch-out: This is the most dangerous part of the job. High-tension springs can cause serious injury if mishandled, which is why DIY is strongly discouraged.

5. Installing and tensioning new springs

• The tech will:
  • Select properly sized springs based on your door’s weight, height, and track configuration.
  • Install new torsion or extension springs, bearings, and sometimes new cables or hardware.
  • Wind and tension the springs to manufacturer specifications.
• After tensioning, they’ll:
  • Test the door manually for smooth, balanced movement.
  • Make fine adjustments to spring tension if the door drifts up or down.

6. System tune-up and opener check

A thorough tech will also:

• Lubricate moving parts:
  • Springs, rollers, hinges, and bearings (not the tracks themselves)
• Inspect rollers and hinges and recommend replacement if worn or cracked.
• Check opener force and travel limits:
  • Ensuring the opener doesn’t push too hard and that it reverses properly when obstructed.

Ask them to show you how the door should feel when properly balanced.

7. Final testing and cleanup

Before leaving, the tech should:

• Run the door through several open/close cycles with the opener.
• Test safety features:
  • Photo-eye sensors
  • Auto-reverse on contact
• Review the work completed, parts used, and warranty details.
• Clean up old parts and debris.

You should receive an invoice or work order summarizing the repair.

DIY vs. hire a pro

Why garage door spring repair is not a typical DIY job

Garage door springs are under significant torque and tension. Mistakes can result in:

• Severe hand, face, or eye injuries from slipping tools or sudden spring release
• Falling doors that can crush fingers, feet, or anything in the doorway
• Damage to the door, opener, or tracks that costs more than the original repair

Even many experienced DIYers choose to hire this out because:

• Specialized tools (winding bars, correct fasteners, safety equipment) are required.
• Correct spring sizing is critical; undersized or oversized springs can damage the opener or cause the door to behave unpredictably.
• Improper installation can void warranties and create ongoing safety hazards.

When a homeowner can safely DIY

Limit DIY to low-risk maintenance tasks, such as:

• Lubricating springs, rollers, and hinges with a garage-door-safe lubricant
• Visually inspecting:
  • Frayed cables
  • Bent tracks
  • Loose hinge screws
• Testing safety features:
  • Checking that photo-eyes are aligned and clean
  • Using a small object (like a 2x4) to confirm the door reverses on contact
• Replacing remote batteries or reprogramming remotes/keypads (following the opener manual)

Anything involving spring tension, cable replacement, major track adjustments, or opener motor disassembly should be left to a trained, insured professional.

When you should absolutely hire a pro

Call a pro immediately if:

• A spring is visibly broken or hanging loose.
• The door is crooked, jammed, or off its tracks.
• Cables are frayed, unwound, or snapped.
• The door is extremely heavy or impossible to lift manually.
• You hear grinding, popping, or screeching under load.

If you’re unsure, err on the side of caution. The cost of a professional repair is small compared to the potential cost of an ER visit or major property damage.

Questions to ask before you commit

Use these questions to vet garage door repair companies and avoid surprises:

• Do you charge a service call or diagnostic fee, and is it applied to the repair?
• What is your estimated total cost for spring replacement on my type of door? (Ask what could make it higher.)
• Will you replace both springs if my system uses two, and why or why not?
• What type and cycle rating of springs will you install? (Standard vs. high-cycle.)
• Is the quote for parts and labor all-inclusive, or are there potential add-ons (cables, rollers, hardware)?
• Do you offer same-day or emergency service, and is there an extra fee for that?
• What warranties do you provide on parts and labor, and what voids them?
• Are your technicians employees or subcontractors, and are they insured?
• Will you perform a full safety inspection and tune-up of the door and opener as part of the visit?
• Can you show me the old parts and explain what failed before you dispose of them?
• How can I maintain the new springs to help them last longer?
• What payment options do you accept, and when is payment due?

Quick FAQ

How do I know if my garage door spring is broken?

Common signs include:

• A visible gap in the torsion spring above the door
• A loud bang from the garage when it failed
• The opener runs but the door won’t lift, or only moves a few inches
• The door feels extremely heavy or impossible to lift manually

Can I open my garage door with a broken spring?

It’s not recommended. Forcing the opener to lift a door without working springs can:

• Burn out the opener motor
• Bend the door panels or tracks
• Create a serious safety hazard if the door slams shut

If you must move the door in an emergency, have two or more adults lift it manually with extreme caution—and only if the door isn’t jammed or off-track. In most cases, it’s safer to wait for a pro.

How long do garage door springs usually last?

For typical residential use:

• Standard springs often last around 7–10 years, depending on how often you use the door.
• High-cycle springs can last longer, especially in homes where the garage door is used many times per day.

Frequent use, lack of lubrication, and harsh environments can shorten spring life.

Should I replace my opener when I replace the springs?

Not necessarily. If your opener is:

• Working well, relatively quiet, and not too old, you may only need spring replacement.
• Very old, noisy, or struggling even with good springs, the tech may recommend an opener upgrade. Ask for separate pricing so you can decide.

Wrap-up / next steps

A broken garage door spring is stressful, but the repair is routine for a qualified pro. Knowing what it should cost, how the process works, and what questions to ask helps you get your door working again safely—without overpaying or risking injury.

Next steps:

• Secure the area and avoid using the door or opener until it’s inspected.
• Gather 2–3 quotes if time allows, focusing on total cost, spring quality, and warranty—not just the lowest price.
• Ask each pro about long-term maintenance to extend the life of your new springs.

If you’re not sure where to start, you can use Home Services Scout to compare local garage door repair providers, check reviews, and request multiple quotes so you can choose a qualified pro with confidence.