Washer Not Draining? Quick Checks Before You Call for Service

A washer that won’t drain can go from annoying to urgent fast, especially if you’re staring at a tub full of water. In many cases, the cause is simple and fixable without tools. This guide walks you through safe, basic checks you can try first—and when it’s smarter to stop and call a pro.

Typical costs / fees

Actual prices vary by region and brand, but here are rough US ballparks:

• Basic diagnosis / service call:

  • About $75–$150 for a technician to come out, inspect, and quote a repair.
  • Some companies apply this fee toward the repair if you proceed.

• Simple clog or filter clean-out:

  • Around $100–$200, depending on access and time required.
  • Costs are lower if no parts are needed and the machine is easy to reach.

• Drain pump replacement:

  • Typically $200–$450 total (parts + labor).
  • Higher-end brands or stacked units can be more due to parts cost and extra labor.

• Drain hose replacement or re-routing:

  • Often $100–$250, depending on hose length, access, and whether cabinetry must be moved.

• Control board or wiring issues affecting draining:

  • Can range from $250–$600+, especially on newer, feature-heavy models.

What drives costs up:

• Premium or less common brands with pricier parts
• Stacked units or tight laundry closets that are hard to access
• Water damage cleanup if the washer has overflowed or leaked
• After-hours or same-day emergency service

What keeps costs down:

• Addressing issues early before the pump burns out
• Clear access to the washer and shutoff valves
• Simple clogs in the filter or hose instead of failed components

What to expect (process overview)

1. Stay safe before you touch anything

• Unplug the washer from the outlet. If you can’t reach safely, turn off the circuit at the breaker panel.
• Avoid standing in water while handling plugs or controls. If the floor is wet near outlets, stop and call a pro.
• Turn off water supply valves (usually two valves behind the washer) if there’s any leaking.

2. Confirm the symptoms

Note exactly what’s happening; it helps with both DIY and pro diagnosis:

• Washer stops with water still inside
• Spin cycle doesn’t start or is weak
• Error codes on the display (like “ND,” “OE,” “E2,” etc., depending on brand)
• Pump noise vs. silence during drain:
  • Pump humming or grinding but no draining = likely clog or failing pump
  • No pump sound at all = possible electrical, control, or pump failure

3. Try a basic reset and drain cycle

• Plug back in briefly (if the area is dry and safe) and:
  • Cancel the current cycle
  • Select a “Drain & Spin” or similar cycle
• Listen:
  • If it drains now, it may have been a one-time glitch or unbalanced load.
  • If it still doesn’t drain, unplug again and continue with checks.

4. Check the drain hose

• Pull the washer out only as far as you can safely without straining hoses or cords.

• Inspect the drain hose (the larger hose going to a standpipe, sink, or wall):

  • Look for:

    • Kinks or sharp bends
    • Hose crushed behind the machine or cabinet
    • The hose end pushed too far down into the standpipe (can cause siphoning issues)

  • Fixes you can try:

    • Straighten obvious kinks
    • Raise or lower the hose to the height recommended in your manual (usually around waist height)
    • Make sure the hose is secured but not sealed airtight into the drain pipe (it needs some air gap)

• If the hose is visibly damaged, brittle, or leaking, it’s usually best to have a pro replace it.

5. Inspect and clean the drain filter (common on front-loaders)

Many front-load washers have a small access door near the bottom front:

• Place towels and a shallow pan or tray under the access area—water will likely come out.
• Open the panel and look for:
  • A small drain hose with a cap (to slowly drain water)
  • A round filter cap that unscrews

Steps (general, always check your manual):

• Pull out the small hose (if present), remove the cap slowly, and drain water into your pan.
• Once water flow slows, unscrew the main filter cap slowly—more water may come out.
• Remove and clean the filter:
  • Clear out coins, hair, lint, buttons, or small clothing items
  • Rinse the filter under running water
• Check inside the filter housing with a flashlight for:
  • Debris around the impeller (small fan-like part)
  • Anything jammed that you can safely remove by hand

Reassemble:

• Reinstall the filter cap firmly (hand-tight) and replace the small drain hose cap.
• Close the access door, plug the washer back in, and run a Drain & Spin test.

Stop and call a pro if:

• The filter is cracked or won’t seal
• The impeller is loose, broken, or won’t turn at all
• You hear grinding or burning smells from the pump

6. For top-load washers: check for simple obstructions

Top-loaders often don’t have an external filter, but you can still check:

• Inside the tub:

  • Look for socks or small items stuck between the inner basket and outer tub
  • Check around the agitator (if present) for trapped items

• Drain hose and standpipe:

  • Similar to front-loaders, confirm no kinks or clogs at the hose end
  • If water backs up and overflows the standpipe when draining, the house drain may be clogged—this is a plumbing issue, not the washer itself.

Avoid disassembling the cabinet, agitator, or inner tub unless you’re very comfortable with appliance repair. It’s easy to damage seals and create leaks.

7. Manually remove water if needed

If the washer still won’t drain:

• For front-loaders:

  • Use the small drain hose at the filter access (if equipped) to slowly drain.
  • If not available, you can scoop water out with a small container and use towels.

• For top-loaders:

  • Carefully scoop water into a bucket.
  • Don’t tip the entire washer; this can spill water into electrical components.

Once most of the water is out, you can:

• Remove the clothes and wring them out in a sink or tub.
• Leave the door or lid propped open to reduce musty odors.

8. Decide whether to keep troubleshooting or call a pro

If you’ve:

• Checked the hose for kinks
• Cleaned the accessible filter
• Tried a drain cycle reset

…and the washer still won’t drain, it’s likely time for professional help. Internal pump replacement, wiring checks, and control board testing are best handled by a trained technician.

DIY vs. hire a pro

What’s usually safe for most homeowners

• Unplugging and resetting the washer
• Checking for hose kinks and obvious drain issues
• Cleaning an accessible front-load drain filter with basic tools
• Scooping out water and removing laundry
• Checking the house drain (e.g., clearing visible lint from a laundry sink strainer)

These tasks involve minimal disassembly and low risk if you follow basic safety steps.

When you should call a professional

• Electrical concerns:

  • Breaker trips when the washer tries to drain
  • Burning smells, smoke, or visible sparking
  • No power to the pump or control panel

• Internal component issues:

  • Pump makes loud grinding noises
  • Impeller is broken, loose, or doesn’t turn
  • Repeated drain failures after you’ve cleared clogs

• Water damage risks:

  • Leaks into floors, walls, or ceilings below
  • Water under the washer you can’t see the source of
  • Moldy smells combined with visible moisture

• Stacked or built-in units:

  • Moving or unstacking a washer/dryer set can be heavy and awkward
  • Tight cabinetry can hide hoses and wiring—easy to damage if forced

Pros have the tools to:

• Test voltage safely
• Access internal pumps and hoses without breaking seals
• Source correct replacement parts
• Check for related issues (like spin or control problems) at the same visit

If you’re unsure, it’s usually safer—and often cheaper in the long run—to have a technician diagnose the problem rather than guessing and replacing parts at random.

Questions to ask before you commit

Whether you’re talking to a repair company or deciding on next steps, these questions help you make a smart call:

• What’s your service call or diagnostic fee, and is it applied to the repair?
• Do you have experience with my washer type (front-load, top-load, stacked, high-efficiency)?
• Can you give a ballpark range for common “won’t drain” repairs before you come out?
• Do you carry typical drain pumps and hoses on your truck, or will parts need to be ordered?
• What’s your warranty on parts and labor for this type of repair?
• How soon can you come out, and do you offer same-day or emergency service?
• Will I get a written estimate before you start the repair?
• Are you licensed and insured, and do you run background checks on technicians?
• What signs would tell you it’s not worth repairing my washer vs. replacing it?
• How long do you expect the repair to take, and will I need to move the washer beforehand?
• Do you charge extra for evenings, weekends, or second visits if parts aren’t on hand?
• Can you check for other potential issues (like leaks or spin problems) while you’re here?

Quick FAQ

Why did my washer suddenly stop draining mid-cycle?

Common reasons include a clogged drain filter, a blocked hose (from lint, coins, or small clothing), or an unbalanced/overloaded load that caused the cycle to stop. Less commonly, a pump or control board can fail without much warning.

Is it safe to keep running a washer that doesn’t drain properly?

No. Repeated attempts can overheat the pump, trip breakers, or cause leaks and water damage. If one reset and a quick hose/filter check don’t fix it, stop using the washer until the issue is resolved.

Can a clogged house drain make it look like the washer is broken?

Yes. If the standpipe or sink drain is clogged, water from the washer can back up and overflow, even though the washer is pumping correctly. If you see water overflowing from the drain pipe, you may need a plumber rather than an appliance repair.

How do I prevent drain problems in the future?

• Empty pockets before washing
• Use mesh bags for small items (socks, baby clothes, delicates)
• Clean the drain filter (if your model has one) on a regular schedule per the manual
• Avoid overloading the washer and using excessive detergent

Wrap-up / next steps

A washer that won’t drain is stressful, but many issues come down to simple clogs or hose problems that you can safely check in a few minutes. If those quick checks don’t solve it—or if you see any signs of electrical trouble, leaks, or repeated failures—it’s time to bring in a professional.

Before you schedule, it’s smart to compare at least 2–3 quotes so you understand typical pricing, availability, and warranty terms in your area. You can use a service like Home Services Scout to quickly compare local appliance repair pros, read reviews, and find someone who fits your timing and budget.